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The North Sea cod has been deemed sustainable, allowing consumers to eat it without guilt and capping a remarkable recovery for a popular fish stock that only a decade ago was facing collapse.
Fishermen, campaign groups and policymakers celebrated the decision by the Marine Stewardship Council, a non-profit group that promotes healthy fisheries with a blue tick certification mark that holds enormous sway with consumers and restaurants.
Thanks to a collaborative, cross-industry effort, one of our most iconic fish has been brought back from the brink, said Toby Middleton, programme director for the MSC, calling the cod’s recovery a huge accomplishment.
Yet the MSC decision comes at a time when many are again worrying about the fish’s future because of Britain’s exit from the EU and its pledge to abandon the fishing regime that has helped guide the cod’s recovery.
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Some fisheries experts warn that an abrupt British exit from the EU’s common fisheries policy might lead to a free-for-all among vessels from competing nations, with the cod becoming the biggest victim. Similar disputes have led to overfishing of mackerel and other stocks in recent years.
British fishermen, particularly those in Scotland, who tend to dominate the North Sea and overwhelmingly favour Brexit, argue that such concerns are overblown and that they will are well prepared to manage their territorial waters without the EU.
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Cod has been consumed in the UK at least since the arrival of the Norsemen in the ninth century. The meaty and abundant fish was for decades a staple of the fishing communities on the east coast.
Their numbers exploded in the 1960s during a mass spawning that still puzzles scientists.
But they soon began to dwindle as the EU-subsidised fishing fleets grew larger and more technologically advanced. From a peak of 270,000 tonnes in the 1970s, North Sea cod stock fell to just 44,000 tonnes in 2006, prompting warnings from scientists that its survival was at stake.
The EU responded with a cod recovery plan that involved tighter quotas governed by science as opposed to politics and a decommissioning of vessels. Fishermen in Scotland, who bore the brunt of the adjustment, also played a role by unilaterally closing fishing grounds and introducing new gear.
Mike Park, chief executive of the Scottish White Fish Producers Association, called the MSC decision a massive development and a testament to the power of collective action. He added: The years of commitment to rebuilding North Sea cod has shown that fishermen are responsible and can be trusted to deliver stable and sustainable stocks.
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Fishermen in Peterhead and other North Sea ports have long reported increasing numbers of cod. The stock’s apparent recovery had led to speculation over the past year that the MSC would change its designation, giving the public the green light to consume the fish without worrying about the stock’s sustainability.
Still, scientists note the stock has not and may never return to its earlier levels. While North Sea cod appear to be living longer and growing larger due to fishing restrictions, they are still not breeding in huge numbers. The bulk of the population has also moved north, probably because of warmer waters.
WWF, the environmental group, praised the MSC decision but said: If we’re to get North Sea cod back on British plates for good, it’s vital that we don’t lose focus on sustainably managing fish stocks and ensuring the protection of the marine wildlife and habitats as the UK develops its post-Brexit fisheries policy.
The Financial Times Limited 2017